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Care of new strawberry plants

Care of new strawberry plants



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More Information ». Strawberries ripening on the plant. Barbara H. Improving Soil Structures and Fertility: Soil structures and fertility may be improved by incorporating organic matter like leaves, chopped straw, compost, rotted, sawdust, or grass clippings in the fall. Digging, rototilling, or plowing these materials into the soil in the fall, the organic material will be well decomposed by planting time in the early spring.

Content:
  • How To Prepare Strawberry Plants For Winter, Whether Potted Or Planted!
  • Growing Strawberries
  • How to Grow Strawberries
  • How to Prune Strawberries
  • Growing Berries in Your Backyard
  • All about Strawberry from sowing to harvest
  • How to Care for Strawberries
WATCH RELATED VIDEO: Growing Strawberries In Pots Or Containers!

How To Prepare Strawberry Plants For Winter, Whether Potted Or Planted!

Strawberries are well suited for planting in the home garden since they produce fruits very quickly and require a relatively small amount of space.

Each plant may produce up to one quart of fruit when grown in a matted row during the first fruiting year. June-bearing cultivars typically produce fruits during the second year of planting while everbearing and day-neutral cultivars produce fruits during the first year of planting. Twenty-five plants will normally produce enough strawberries for an average-sized family.

More plants can be ordered and planted since strawberry plants are relatively inexpensive. Excess berries can be turned into jam or jellies. They can also be frozen for future use. A strawberry planting does not remain productive forever. The strawberry yield usually declines during the second and third years of fruiting; therefore, a new planting should be established after strawberry plants produce fruits for more than three to four years for maximum production every year.

A strawberry bed also needs to be renovated after three years of fruiting to stay productive for one or two more years. Strawberry plants produce attractive fruit with fine flavor. Strawberries have a very high vitamin C content and are versatile as a dessert food. Most cultivars of strawberries are well suited to freezing and processing, as well as for fresh use. Many people enjoy eating the fresh-picked fruit.

Strawberries are also excellent for jams, jellies and pies. Freshly sliced and sugared strawberries are excellent when served chilled either alone or over shortcake or ice cream. In addition, strawberries contain many antioxidants, which have anticancer properties. Strawberry plants can be divided into three types, June-bearing, everbearing and day-neutral. In Ohio, the ripening season of June-bearing strawberry cultivars ranges from late May to the end of June.

Everbearing cultivars are capable of producing a crop in the year of planting and can produce two smaller crops, one in late spring and the second in early fall. The day-neutral plants are capable of producing fruit throughout most of the growing season.

June-bearing types are most popular for the home garden and commercial use and are well worth waiting for because of their high yields, outstanding flavor and quality. One cannot tell by looking at the plant whether they are of the June-bearing, everbearing or day-neutral type; therefore, when purchasing plants, it is important to specify which type is desired.

It is certainly a good idea to plant both types to get fruit production in the first year from day-neutral strawberries, and high yield and quality from June-bearing strawberries. A main portion of the plants should be of June-bearing type while other two types can extend the harvest season. Home fruit growers have a large number of cultivars varieties to select from.

The selection is much greater for the June-bearing types than for the day-neutral types. Strawberry cultivars suggested for growing in Ohio are listed in Table 1. It is important to know the ripening season, yield, berry size, freezing quality and dessert quality of suggested cultivars in order to select cultivars according to personal needs Table 1.

In addition, selecting disease resistant cultivars will help growers reduce the risks of damage from plant diseases Table 2. Refer to Table 2 for the disease resistance of the suggested strawberry cultivars. Home strawberry growers are encouraged to check the references listed or talk with Extension Educators or local commercial strawberry growers for additional information about strawberry cultivars.

Strawberry plants require full sun for the maximum yield and the best quality. They will grow and produce crops in several different types of soil. However, best results are obtained when the plants are grown in loose, fertile soils containing large quantities of organic matter.

The soil should be slightly acidic, having a pH of 5. If the extent of soil acidity or fertility is unknown, it is suggested that the soil be sampled and tested. Arrangements for soil testing can be made through your county Extension office. Request special tests for organic matter and boron. Lime and fertilizers should be applied to soils according to soil test results. The strawberry plant is sensitive to excessive soil moisture. Strawberries should be planted in raised beds or on ridges if drainage is a problem.

Also, avoid planting strawberry plants in areas where potatoes, tomatoes or sod were grown recently. Insect and disease problems may result in serious plant damage in such areas. Important cultural practices for growing strawberries include planting techniques and spacing, weed control, proper fertilizer, blossom removal, irrigation, renovation of strawberries after harvest, insect and disease control, and mulch for protection from cold temperatures and diseases.

Early spring is the best time to plant strawberry plants as long as soil is not too wet. Fall planting is not recommended because plants can be injured by soil heaving alternate freezing and thawing. Strawberry plants have roots, a crown and leaves Figure 3. The crown is a short stem between the roots and leaves. When planting, make sure to cover the roots and only half of the crown with soil.

Make a trench deep enough to set the roots vertically. Do not bend roots horizontally. June-bearing plants are spaced 12 to 24 inches apart. On close-spaced plants, runners are controlled by removing unwanted runners during the first season. In August, rows should be 18 to 24 inches wide with plants 6 to 8 inches apart in the row.

Generally rows are 36 to 40 inches apart. A circular terrace can be used if one has limited space Figure 4. For day-neutral strawberries, plants are set 8 to 12 inches apart in the row with 30 to 36 inches between rows. Remove runners throughout the first season and remove flowers for the first 6 weeks after planting. Mulch the planting with 3 to 4 inches of straw or wood chips to conserve moisture.

Mechanical cultivation, mulching and certain herbicides are suited to maintain essentially weed-free planting. Mechanical cultivation and mulches are recommended. Soil testing every two to three years is highly recommended for the best yield and quality. Apply nutrients and lime if needed prior to planting according to soil test results. Apply 1 ounce 10 oz.

Apply 1 to 1. In the fruiting years, apply 1 to 1. Remove the flower stalks of June-bearing strawberry plants as they appear throughout the first growing season.

More production can be expected if the plants are allowed to attain large size before fruiting. Remove the blossoms of day-neutral types of plants as they appear until about the middle of June first year only. Then allow flowers to set fruit for harvest during the remainder of the season August through October. Additional watering is needed during dry seasons. Plants require 1 inch to 1.

Take care in watering so that the soil does not remain soggy for any prolonged period. Strawberry plants can be fruited more than one year but probably not for more than three harvest seasons, depending on the vigor and number of plants. June-bearing strawberries should be renovated every year right after harvest if one desires excellent fruit production for more than one year.

First control weeds by mechanical means or labeled herbicides. Remove all old leaves with a mower or a sickle. Make sure to set the mower as high as the blade will go to avoid injuring plant crowns. Narrow the rows to a width of about 12 inches by cultivating between them with a rotary tiller.

Thin the plants within each row, leaving 4 to 6 inches between plants. Topdress beds with 0. Broadcast 2. Apply 1 inch of water each week to promote growth if it does not rain. The strawberry patch may look very depressing right after renovation Figure 5.

However, strawberry plants do recover beautifully Figure 6 and will be much more productive. Many problems due to insects and diseases in the home garden can be avoided by selecting sites where sod, tomatoes or potatoes have not been recently grown; planting disease-free and disease-resistant planting stock; and using good cultural practices.

In addition to value for weed control, mulching is necessary to provide winter protection for the plants. Apply straw that is free of weed seeds 2 to 3 inches deep over the plants after they have been subjected to several sharp freezes in the low 30s or high 20s in fall.This is generally between November 15 and 30, but no later than DecemberStrawberry flower buds are very susceptible to spring frosts. Mulches used for winter protection should be pulled from plants in early spring, before there is much leaf yellowing.

The mulch should be left in the alleyways and can be used to cover blossom in the spring when frost is predicted, especially with early cultivars, such as Earliglow.

Frost protection could be the difference between a good crop and no crop. CFAES provides research and related educational programs to clientele on a nondiscriminatory basis. For more information, visit cfaesdiversity. For an accessible format of this publication, visit cfaes. Skip to main content.

Agriculture and Natural Resources.


Growing Strawberries

Growing strawberries in pots and hanging baskets is an easy way to enjoy super-sweet fruits all summer long. I keep a pot of strawberries on my sunny back deck as well as a few baskets in my polytunnel so I can graze as I putter in the garden. But why grow in containers? Why not plant them right in the garden? Strawberry plants are compact and perfect for tucking in small spaces like pots, planters, and baskets.

Strawberries send out runners that may root and start new plants. Caring for Strawberry Plants. Provide your.

How to Grow Strawberries

Join us on Facebook. We list the seven key care tasks which will ensure a healthy crop each year. They are not complicated especially so when we describe them in detail using plain and simple language. The one to watch out for is crop rotation because this can prove problematic in smaller gardens but it is very necessary if you want to avoid the common pests and diseases. In most conditions strawberry plants grown in the open ground will not require watering, in fact watering may well harm them by increasing the risk of fungal diseases. There are some situations where water may be required and these are listed below:. We don't want to exaggerate the risk of frost though because strawberry plants are very hardy plants. It's the flowers which are at risk of frost rather than the plants or the fruits.

How to Prune Strawberries

British Broadcasting Corporation Home. Strawberries take up hardly any room, produce attractive flowers and delicious fruit, and are easy to maintain. Follow our advice on growing your own. Strawberries can be grown in a wide range of soils, from light sand to heavy clay. However, waterlogging will cause the fruits to become diseased and the plant to rot.

Strawberries Fragaria are one of the most popular and delicious fruits in Australia but did you know that strawberries are actually a part of the rose family?

Growing Berries in Your Backyard

Sweet, juicy strawberries are one of the simple delights of the summer months. Although the plants do not require heavy pruning as do other berry bushes, they do need light maintenance through the summer and at the end of the growing season. Strawberry plants put out runners with plantlets at the end that take root when they touch soil. If you want a berry patch, then let the runners grow. However, the new plants take energy away from the adult bush, which results in smaller, less desirable fruit. Cut the runners down to the ground with pruning shears, or by pinching them off with your fingers, being careful not to damage the strawberry bush or roots.

All about Strawberry from sowing to harvest

Plant in garden beds, pots and containers. The better the soil, the better your strawberries will grow. If you are starting with an existing garden bed clear the area before planting and dig in organic matter like sheep pellets and Tui Compost to your soil. A good rule of thumb is to plant five strawberry plants for each member of the household. Research shows that planting strawberries in New Zealand's winter temperatures will produce a larger crop over the season, so don't be afraid to plant early. Choose a spot in full sun to ensure your strawberries thrive. Lack of sun will mean little or no flavour for your summer berries. Feed your plants and they will feed you.

Photo of strawberry plant. Strawberries are many people's favorite fruit and are always popular at local farmers' markets and roadside stands.

How to Care for Strawberries

A strawberry plant produces fruits with a tender and fragrant flesh, which bring to mind thoughts of summer, sun and refreshing snacks. Name — Fragaria vesca Family — Rosaceae Type — perennial fruit bush. Height — 6 to 16 inches 15 to 40 cm Exposure — full sun, part sun Soil — rather rich and well drained.

The planting and cultivating of strawberries causes some work. But the efforts are certainly worthwhile. If you plant new strawberry beds in the summer, you will harvest the first fruits in the following year. Strawberries from your own garden often taste better than the fruits from the supermarket.

You will never taste a sweeter strawberry than one picked fresh from your own garden. And many varieties can be harvested from spring until frost.

Regular feeding is essential for the best results from a strawberry bed , try not to simply add some fertilizer on planting and then assume that this will do them for subsequent years. An annual top dressing — again with growmore, bonemeal or seaweed maxicrop will give much increased yields and also aids fruit quality and the health of the plant. The feed you added at planting time will quickly become used up or it will leach away through heavy rain. So make sure you top it up, at least annually in early Spring, and again in early Autumn after the plants have been cut back. In late Summer or Autumn, when the plants have finished fruiting it is a good idea to trim away all of the old foliage. Treat each plant individually and give it a good haircut with shears or a large pair of scissors. But more importantly you will find diseases and bugs and creepy crawlies will be much less prevalent as they will hide in the old leaves.

Strawberries are well suited for planting in the home garden since they produce fruits very quickly and require a relatively small amount of space. Each plant may produce up to one quart of fruit when grown in a matted row during the first fruiting year. June-bearing cultivars typically produce fruits during the second year of planting while everbearing and day-neutral cultivars produce fruits during the first year of planting. Twenty-five plants will normally produce enough strawberries for an average-sized family.